Following our article on 1930s fashion that launched our series on fashion yesterday, we continue with the 1950 These years are to place in a post-war context, in a world that has hangover after many vicissitudes.This is the beginning of a period of reconstruction, the Trente Glorieuses, which will see the company undergo major structural changes and during which many modern icons will appear through movies, music, political events, giving birth to stylistic movements that we find today. Always within the limits of our competencies, strakes in way of introduction, some key dates from the 1950s.
Some key dates
- Productivity gains increase by 5% per year on average from 1949 to 1963
- 1950: creation of the minimum wage (guaranteed minimum wage)
- 1950-1954: McCarthyism (witch hunt)
- 1952: Elizabeth II became Queen of the Kingdom Rcoyaume
- 1953: launch of the magazine L’Express
- 1956: Introduction of a third week of paid leave
- 1958: End of the Fourth Republic on October 4, the Fifth Republic replaces the following day. Charles de Gaulle became President of the Republic on 21 December
- 1959: First appearance of the character of Asterix in the journal “Pilot”
During the decade, Hollywood crisis settles, this including the growing of programs broadcast on US television but also to McCarthyism. Thus from 1950 to 1959 annual film production from 350 to 200. This film will not stop as long creating several masterpieces including a selection here.
- A Streetcar Named Desire Elia Kazan  big screen adaptation of the work of Tennessee Williams, 12 Oscar nomination, this is the film that gave birth to the sex symbol, Marlon Brando
(2) Sing the rain of Stanley Donen and Gene Kelly  considered the best muscial film cinema, Debbie Reynolds said that the film “was one of the most trying times of his life”
(3) Othello Orson Welles [ 1952] adaptation of Shakespeare’s tragedy, the film won the Palme in Cannes gold the same year
(4) 20000 Leagues under the sea Richard Fleischer : it is the first “blockbuster” studios Disney and one of the first live action
(5)The Ten Commandments Cecil B. DeMille : the director had made a first version of the film in 1923, but decided to do it again for artistic reasons. A successful challenge since the film was first in worldwide box office that year.
- (6) Paths of Glory Stanley Kubrick  anti-war film, because of its sensitive subject and the many criticisms in the film, it was only released in France in 1975
(7) 12 Angry Men Sidney Lumet : multi-rewarded, the film is built as a closed session where the feeling of suffocation is progressive and overwhelming
(8) Cold sweats Alfred Hitchcock  monument of suspense, Hitchcock made several other outstanding films this decade which Strangers on a Train 1952; The man who knew too much in 1956 and by Northwest in 1959
(9) Les quatre cents coups François Truffaut : Price of directing at Cannes the same year, the film marks the debut of New wave
(10) Ben-Hur William Wyler : this peplum epic won 11 Oscars and four Golden Globes, noted that the legendary chariot race asked 5 months of preparation and nearly 3 months of shooting
- The style and fashion of the 50s
- During the 2nd World War, almost all the Parisian fashion houses stopped their activity. The post-war years will see high fashion start skyrocketing. Many houses are born like Balenciaga or Carven. But it’s really the time that Christian Dior brand, with his first fashion show in 1947, the invention of the movement “New Look” redefining women in a more modern design. It is through what might now seem like a simple tailor, the tailor, “Bar” whose skirt leaves discoveries legs, waist is curved, rounded shoulders and chest high he draws that will be the wife of the future with its first tailor, Pierre Cardin. During the rest of the decade, it will continue its business with successively line H, the creation of her first perfume (this is the first fashion house to launch her perfume) and the arrival of Yves Saint Laurent creation his house will have a great success from 1955 to 1960 (it will leave in 1960 to create his own house). Many developments for women then, but see what it was for humans.
One thing to really consider is that youth has relied heavily in the fashion of the 1950s If until now came from the trends and fashion houses were reserved and monitored by adults, the film gains popularity of television, music and their stars influenced the youth began to try to copy the style of these idols. While the youth purchasing power increased, the garment industry was not slow to grow, development of consumer society requires, and people in general began to take care of the way they appear to others.
During the war, the tailors had to face severe restrictions tissue and achieve their costumes more pragmatically, it was over. Jackets, always with padded shoulders and inspired by the “drape cut” were then resized in further cuts, ditto for pants that was worn with a setback. Above, men generally opted for a long coat sometimes with details in velvet and ended their look by a bowler or a trilby. The drape cut lasted until the appearance of Teddy Boys, it appeared cultural group in England whose dresscode was a mixture of the look of the Edwardian era (the jacket “drape cut” was the centerpiece, it will be recalled) and the American gangster look. They listened to rock and roll, wore tight pants, nice well-polished shoes, a bolo tie and reputation soon to be. Of violent and racist gangs for more extreme.
The Savile Row tailors, jackets creation specialists “drape cut”, then withdrew all the Edwardian inspiration for their costumes because they did not like the image that people began to associate. As the beginning of a new era, jackets took more contemporary forms (in particular the single-breasted) and began to look like we wear today (shorter, well-shaped shoulders, bending, lighter fabric) through the emergence of Italian tailors the late 1950s This style tailor “Italian”, which diffuses in the 50s is characterized by a softer cut, less structured shoulders, smoother size; standing out of the English style, with narrow shoulders, the very marked size and cut “structured”.
Shoes & Accessories
soon after the war, men become accustomed to belts military uniforms, gradually abandoning the straps for leisurewear and for costumes. For shoes, moccasin Weejun home Bass, American brand that had already appeared in the previous decade and had some success when highs. He finds himself at the feet of all stylish men of the time.
In the 50 ‘, men still bear heavily hat in town. But if the form had replaced Homburg Fedora 30 and 40 years, the trilby made a big breakthrough. It is always derived from the classic fedora, but its edges are narrower.Only at the end of this decade that men forsake him to stay hair flying.
The tie is more visionary, the appearance of models figurative motifs (which are not always the best taste). It takes a finer cut than before. The late 1950s also saw the arrival of the tie 7 folds from Italy.
For moments of relaxation, normal guy had the opportunity to enjoy more free time, however, the 50s saw the emergence of the concept of holding “casual”. The man then abandoned his shirt for a “relaxation” model, cut cowboy (chambray checkered) or the Hawaiian shirt he had seen Elvis (yes, he loved Elvis). The pants remained more or less the same as they were to go to work, cut larger, but always wool. Jeans by cons, were reserved for “sporting” activities (such as gardening, for example).
Over vest, men put a little cardigan in wool to keep warm. The polo also became more popular with sports (especially golfers) we wore with a sports jacket in tweed or dark in color.
The schoolboy style
On the eastern US coast campus, academic style it, characterized by subdued colors (marine, brown, gray) for how looks “son papa” (son of the “normal guy” in short) is called “Ivy league” Ivy in English means “ivy”, we found on the facades of universities of the time. This dress code is for the most prestigious facs US students. Through it, mixing the early 20th century style and more modern pieces, the elite of the country’s youth shows his intellectual ease, despite this, all the relaxation they can express through their manner of dress while showing their commitment to a strong institution. Sales rich kids going!
By signs: badges, emblems, letters – jackets, cardigans wearing varsity letter were best for university sports – with coins and key materials. The jacket is cut to “American”: the “sack suit” tumbling to the bottom in Europe with its very pronounced waist, shoulders and a wider lapel, three buttons, and often in flannel . Another option blazer: although it appeared many years before, it remains a piece headlight students from Ivy League who always wore with a shield.
Other clothing features: flannel, seersucker, polo, cardigan and already the Oxford shirt buttoned at the neck, which for this part of the youth are all marks of distinction. One of the most famous pieces remains chinos that had its first success during this period. Although it already existed since 1840 (see our topic on How to Choose a chino? ), He was not imported to the United States than in the 30 Chinos was so popular with students from American universities (he was already in England) who often associate a sports jacket and moccasins. Other types of shoes were also face an alternative: white bucks, the saddle shoes were worn by some men although most of the time we saw them at the feet of women and brogues (Brogue end flowery) that were already present before still remained in the era of time at this social group. In a way, the style of the Ivy League is a vanguard of preppy style (which will be her more colorful). However, the outfits are gaining color, contrasting with the austerity period due to war (Young men now dare to wear pink).
We note finally that many have gained early notoriety at that time and are now associated with the preppy style of their history: Alden, Bass, Brooks Brothers, Gant … For further reading, I invite you to visit the excellent article by Milanese Special Selection
Le bad boy
Rebel Without a Cause (1953), The Wild One (1955), certainly the two most legendary films of the 50 years that completely redefined how to dress men across the image of their respective headliner James Dean and Marlon Brando. Few young people aspired to become “bad boys” at that time. This amply changed, following the success of these two films. Jacket leather biker ( Perfecto Schott ), white shirt, jeans (Levi’s) were reserved for those with rebellious spirits, the Teddy boys who immediately adopted the pants of traditional cowboy (they abound one those -the). At the feet of all derivatives of movements “black jacket” (Greasers, bikers, rockers who formed also sometimes violent gangs): motorcycle boots, boots store, creepers and even Converse . Moreover, it was at this time that we began to wear tennis outside sports grounds, in casual outfits
Called beatnik these people from the literary movement initiated by Jack Kerouac and his friends in the late 40s Writers, poets, artists of all kinds who advocated a lifestyle libertarian and anti-conformist. Their look was composed of black sunglasses, beret, black turtleneck for United and dark outfits. Their pants were adjusted their thick sweaters and pants outputs shirts. Considered communists, rolling their cigarettes themselves and drinking coffee, African Americans often made by comparing the later jazz.
In the 50s, if serious and respectable men still wear short hair parted on the side, well held in place with Pento, a freedom wind begins to blow on the heads of young people. They begin to grow it, content to bring them carelessly back of a hand in a gesture of rebellion and rejection of the rules. Gradually, the wick takes the volume and one sees the famous banana, which is to roll this bit to give it volume on the front, a hairstyle popularized by Elvis Presley that has made a real signature.
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